Wednesday
Aug082012

Memphis Shrines: Ribs, Graceland and Rock 'n' Roll

The morning started put early...I had to visit Graceland. You know, just to check that box. For those who haven't, it is a theme park: lines, rip off prices and merchandise everywhere. But the good news is that they did a great job with the little headphone players and if you wanted, you can stop in many places to hear more detailed info. The historical exhibits were as good as any museum, with great, never-seen-before pictures and explanations. i guess the hugeness of the man and his career can bee experienced in the "Trophy Room" where every gold record is on the walls. The rest of the mansion was chintzy, nouveau riche excess. And being a recovered alcoholic, I felt a wave of sadness for a great person who missed the lifeboat experience that I got. The King is still very dead.


Then it was lunch at the venerable Rendezvous. I had emailed John Vergos, son of the founder, Charlie, and he was all for me taping in his place. The back alley entrance gave it the feel of a secret speakeasy but once you made it down the stairs, well, you were in a different type of heaven. You see, everywhere I have visited, the usual celebrity pictures were all over the walls. Here, they had Bear Bryant on the wall. John Daly also, but the Bear is in a class all by himself.

Then the staff showed me their southern hospitality. From the manager, Bobby Ellis, to my waiter to the rib master, Henry Morris, it was an experienced not to be missed. 

John Vergos gave me a few minutes out of his busy day (he's also on the City Council) to talk how it all started. His Dad saw the beauty in serving ribs years ago when the industry basically tossed them away. His dry rub is world-famous. Says John, "You can slop all the sauce you want on after you tried the dry rub, but I'm betting that you won't." Just off Beale Street and all the hoopla, the Rendezvous is as much a shrine in Memphis as Graceland.

But my trip is not only about BBQ. It is all about that place where music and BBQ intersect. So as I make my way to North Carolina and the weekend's performances, I had to point the car through Mississippi to Muscle Shoals, Alabama. Here you'll find the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio. (Listen). With much of the original gear and set up, I am considering recording here in December, where Aretha, Wilson Pickett, the Staples, Bob Seger, the Stones, Paul Simon, Traffic.......and on and on.....have recorded. 

This is the control room that you see in "Gimme Shelter" where the band is listening to a playback of "Wild Horses".  Now onto Huntsville, NASA and more BBQ.

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